Sunday, April 7, 2013

Chianti, Italy Wine Region Report

Wine Regions of Italy



Chianti, Italy has been inhabited by humans since at least 2000 B.C.  The Etruscans are said to
be the first civilization ever recorded living there.  The name Chianti may have come from the
Etruscans, but no one knows for sure.  The Etruscans were the first to cultivate grapes and make
wine in Chianti, a practice that has not stopped for thousands of years after them.  The Etruscans
were absorbed by the Romans which was fantastic for viticulture as the Romans grew and
developed it.  In 1716, Chianti and surrounding towns of Gaiole, Castellina and Radda were
declared a wine area by the Duke of Tuscany.  At the beginning of the nineteenth century,
Chianti fell under the power of France and became known for its red wine. In the 1860s, Italy
was formed and a treaty was signed to recognize Chianti as part of Italy.  It was during this time
that Bettino Ricasoli came up with the “Chianti recipe” of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 10%
Malvasia and 5% local red wines.  In 1995, it became legal to produce Chianti with 100%
Sangiovese and it was required that at least 80% were Sangiovese in order to put Chianti on the
label.  The rules changed again in 1996 to allow 75% to 100% Sangiovese, up to 10%
Canaiolo and up to 20% other approved red wines such as Merlot and Syrah.

Italy highlighted on the world map

Wine Regions of Tuscany





If all the rules and laws about what can be labeled Chianti was not confusing enough, this region of Tuscany is further divided into seven sub regions.  The subregions were redrawn in 1932 and include Classico, Colli Aretini,Collie Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Montullbano and Rufina. In 1996, part of Colli Fiorentini was renamed as Montespertoli. 








Chianti Classico is by far the largest subregion.  It is the land that was originally named Chianti and it located between Florence and Siena.  It is the only subregion allowed to use the black rooster seal on the neck of the bottle.  The winery must also be part of the Chianti Classico Consortium which enforces the rules and laws they set pertaining to wine.  Wineries in Chianti Classico are not allowed to label their wines Chianti Superiore.  Other subzones can put Chianti Superiore on their label if the vineyard has lower yield, higher alcohol and dry extract.  The altitude of this subzone it 820 feet to 2000 feet which is a huge range which obviously has an influence on the terroir.  As you might imagine, there are many hills throughout the region.  The soil is a bluish-grey chalky marlstone called galestro.  The Arno river flows through the north part of Chianti Classico where the temperatures tend to be cooler than the south.  Wines from this subzone tend to be medium bodied, medium to high acidity and have firm tannins.  Floral, cherry and a light nut taste are signature flavors.

Sub regions of Chianti

The other regions of Chianti are made of soil that is mostly marl and chalk.  The two big
vineyards throughout Chianti and all of Tuscany are Antinori and Frescobaldi.  Colli Florentine
is known for its strong character and fruit notes.  Colli Pisane usually has the lightest body and
color out of all the sub regions.  Colli Aretini is relatively new and still making a name for itself.

Chianti's landscape
The terrior of Chianti as a whole is very mild.  The temperatures in the winter are about 45°F
along the coast and 40°F inland.  Many of the days are sunny, but nights are very cold.  July and
August are the warmest months with a high of 90°F.  June and September are both warm, but
there are occasional dry spells.  November gets the most rainfall, about 4.4 inches.  The wind and
sun really depend upon elevation.  As discussed above, there a great differences in elevation
throughout the region which really adds something unique to each wineries’ terroir.
Wine bottle from Marchesi Antinori

As mentioned before, there are many laws in Chianti regarding labeling of wines.  In 2006, the use of white grapes have be prohibited from being in Chianti Classico.  Chianti Classico must have at least 12% alcohol and have been aged in oak for 7 months.  In order to put “Riserva” on the label, the wine must have been aged in oak for 27 months and have a 12.5% alcohol content. Chianti Classico cannot harvest more than 7.5 tonnes/hectare while Chianti is only restricted to 9 tonnes/hectare.  Chianti needs a 11.5% alcohol level and can be released on March 1st following the vintage year.  Chianti Classico cannot be released until October 1st following the vintage year.  Colli Fiorentini, Montespertoli and Rugina can release their wines on June 1st following the vintage year.  The DOC and DOCG areas actually overlap in Chianti.  In order to know what wine is designated with which, you really have to look at the label because these are not designated by sub region.
Wine bottle from Frescobaldi 

A few large, prominent wineries got fed up with these laws about a decade ago.  They decided to use different types of grapes, different equipment and make different styles of Chianti.  They were not allowed to label them Chianti, so they labeled them as table wines.  In Europe, table wines are the lowest grade and cheapest wines around.  However, since these “table wines” were from big name producers with a hefty price tag, people were curious.  They turned out to be globally recognized as “Super Tuscans”.  Now, other wine regions across the global have added the word “Super” into their description of their winery or wine. 
Chianti is fiasco, meaning "flask"

Chianti is no longer always packaged in a squat bottle that is nestled in a straw basket.  Few wineries still use these packaging due to the reputation it got during World War II.  Chianti went through a few unfortunate circumstances which lead to this reputation.  During the 19th century, a odium and phyllorexa epidemic affected all of the vineyards.  This had Chianti almost starting from scratch.  During World War II, few resources were towards viniculture and after the war, Chianti followed the world trend to plant cheaper grapes.  Chianti planted Sangiovese clones, there was over cropping and quantity was put over quality.  This diminished the quality of the product and really gave Chianti and undeserved bad name.
Beautiful landscape of Chianti

Despite the obstacles, Chianti is still a large producer of wine in Italy and has improved on quality tremendously, just ask the Super Tuscans.  Chianti covers 17,300 hectares and produces more than 8 million cases of wine with a DOC recognition or above.   It has been called the “Bordeaux of Italy” due to its flexibility in blending.  It is difficult to get a count of the wineries in Chianti, but I am sure the number is large. This is a growing wine industry which has had its roots in wine for a very long time.






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