Sunday, March 31, 2013

Alsace, France Wine Region Report


Close up view of Alsace, France
Alsace, France is a wine region with quite a long history.  It borders Germany along the Rhine
river, France’s eastern boundary.  It started off as a land of nomads and was soon taken over by
the Romans in 58 BC.  The Romans declared it a center for viticulture and that is where its
winemaking history begins.  During the Middle Ages, Alsace was traded between many different
nobles.  In the early 800s, it fell under the rule Middle Francia and by the late 800s, it was under
the Kingdom of Germany.  Then the Holy Roman Empire took control for 900 years and the
Kingdom of France took the region back.  It went back and forth between France and Germany
for a while until the end of World War II when Nazi Germany fell.  France has had control of
Alsace ever since.  It was not until 1975 that the INAO recognized Alsace as a Grand Cru AOC
region because even though France had taken the region back, German or local law was in effect
for some time afterward.
France highlighted on the world map.

Alsace highlighted within France
Alsace is divided into two regions, Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhine which are north and south
respectively.  They both grow grapes on the lower slopes that face east towards Germany.  Both
sub-regions go by the same classification system and produce very similar wines. 
The slopes of Alsace, France

There are four different classes in Alsace which are Alsace Grand Cru AOC, Alsace AOC,
Cremant d’Alsace AOC and Vin de Table.  Almost all wines from the region are AOC wines and
Vineyards of Alsace, France
there are no Vin de Pays in Alsace.  This means that if it is not an AOC wine, then it must be a Vin de Table which cannot include the grape variety, region of origin or vintage on the label. Cremant d’Alsace AOC means that it is a sparkling wine.  Alsace AOC can be a red, white or rose wine and they have very few restrictions compared to Alsace Grand Cru AOC.  Alsace Grand Cru AOC includes 55 vineyards out of the 120 in the region.  In order to include this
label, the winery must only produce single noble varieties.  The four noble grapes are Riesling, Muscat, Gewarztraminer and Pinot Gris.  Varietals that are named after grapes is unheard of in France expect for in this region.  The vineyard must be at an altitude between 200m and 300m and the yield must be 65 hectoliter per hectare or less.  It must be a single named vineyard of Grand Cru status and the vineyard’s name must be on the bottle. 

Any wine produced in Alsace must be in tall bottles called flutes d’Alsace and this is a legal requirement.  Late harvest classifications include Vendage Tardive and Selection de Grains Nobles.  Vendage Tardive is used in making dessert wines where the grapes stay on the vine until they dehydrate.  Selection de Grains Nobles  is also used for dessert wines, but it depends
upon the grapes being affected by noble rot.  Alsace was the first to coin the term Selection de Grains Nobles and it did not have a legal definition until 1984.
Bottles of wine from Domaine Emile Beyer

As you might have guessed, 90% of the wine produced in Alsace is white.  The two biggest
being Riesling and Gewurtz.  23% of the white wines made in Alsace are Riesling, followed
closely behind by Gewurtz with 18%.  Alsace is known for its dry white wines as that is what s
separates is from German white wines. Some wineries are starting to experiment with leaving
some residual sugar in their wines, but it may be a while until they can be mass produced due to
the strict wine laws in France.  They are trying this with Pinot Gris and Gewurtzraminer, so it
will be interesting to see what becomes of it.

Vineyard in Alsace, France with a glass of white wine

Alsace has a very interesting climate for viticulture and this of course affects the wines produced. 
The soil is a mix of block, pebble, gravel, sand, silt and clay.  The sand helps with drainage, clay
with providing nutrients and the rest of the mixture helps sustain the life of microorganisms
which are needed for reactions such as producing Nitrogen in a form where the plant can use it. 
The total rainfall per year is around 680 mm and the daily average is 7.5 mm.  Alsace’s dry days
just about equal how many wet days they have.  In the summer, the hottest it gets is 80°F and in
the winter, the coldest it gets is about 30°F.  These are pretty stable temperatures compared to
what we deal with here in Virginia.  In order to get the most sunlight, vineyards should be
between a 30° and 60° inclination facing South-East to South.  Alsace has several valleys which
is where many vineyards are planted.  The highest point is Grand Ballon in Haut-Rhin and it is 1426m.  Alsace is only 8238 km2 and is the fifth smallest region of France’s 27 regions.

Alsace wines tend to be very aromatic wines with aromas of floral and spice.  They rarely see
Bottel label from Hugel & Fils

any time in the barrel as most of them are dry, white wines.  However, Alsace produces 8% of its red wines from Pinot Noir.  These wines are rarely exported as most are consumed in the region. Some of the largest wine producers are Maison Trimbach, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Hugel & Fils, Leon Beyer, Weinbach, Josmeyer and Marcel Deiss.  If the label includes “Domaine”, then all the grapes are supposed to be from their vineyard.  Many of these larger producers not only sell their own wine but also wine produced from bought grapes.  This seemed a little odd since from my understanding, if a vineyard is large enough then they don’t need to use bought grapes. If one takes a moment to think about the regulations of only producing so many hectoliters perhectare then their dilemma starts to make sense.  Only 35% of Alsace wines are AOC designated, so most vineyards do not have to abide by these standards.
Bottles from Maison Trimbach



Alsace, like many wine regions in France and across Europe is caught somewhere in between sticking to its famous laws and rules while keeping up with the new world.  Alsace starting to keep some residual sugar in some of its wine is a big deal.  I think this will become a great center for innovation of white wines if France loosens its laws surrounding their wines.









Sources:

Grenache Report

Grenache is the most popular grape that you have never heard of unless you really read the
labels.  It is said to be the most planted grape in the world, over 120.000 hectares.  Grenache can
be a varietal wine, however it is more famous for what it can bring to blended wines.  This grape
ripens very later, even after Cabernet Sauvignon and because it is on the vine so long, it has a lot
of time to produce sugar.  This sugar gives Grenache wines the high alcohol content.  Most
Grenache varietal wines are at least 15% alcohol if not more.  So why does it need to be blended
with other grapes? 
Grenache on the Vine

Varietal Grenache wines will knock your socks off because they are so hot.  There is little
balance in these wines.  They have high alcohol content, lots of sugar with very little acid or
tannins.  Great wines have balance and this grape does not produce wines with balance.  When
blended with other big reds such as Syrah or Mourvèdre, then the balance can be achieved and is
the reason why Grenache is such a big deal in today’s wine world!  These wines are explosive
since they combine high alcohol with the big tannins that Syrah brings to the table.  There are
five countries around the world that have discovered this secret along with how to mass produce
it.  Spain, France, Australia, South Africa and America are all countries keeping the best kept
secret in the wine world.  The map below has all of the United States highlighted, but please
keep in mind that this grape is mostly grown in California. 
Where Grenache is grown right now in 2013

California’s San Joaquin Valley, Southern France, most of Spain, Australia and South Africa all
have a climate which Grenache excels in because they are hot and dry.  Grenache thrives under
water stress and while it can adapt to other climates, it produces the most sugar in a
Mediterranean climate.  As more wine is being produced all over the world, I wouldn’t be
surprised if places like India, South America and other African countries start to experiment with
this varietal.  In climates that get more rain, it is more susceptible to diseases such as downy
mildew, bunch rot and coulure due to the tight grape clusters.  It is a thin grape that is blue-black
in color and attached to a strong, woody canopy that grows upright.  This canopy makes it
difficult to mechanically harvest and is a reason why it is getting less popular in Australia, but
might become more popular in third world countries where mechanically harvesting is not an
Bottle of Grenache Shiraz
option. 

It thrives in schist and granite soil and that might be why it is planted all over Southern France. 
Grenache is usually the dominant grape in Southern Rhone wines and is 80% of the blend
Chateneuf-du-Pape which is Rhone’s most famous wine.  It is attributed to adding a spicy flavor
to this award winning wine.  This is a great contrast to the fruity chewiness it adds to Cotes du
Rhone Villages.   It is often blended with Syrah and Mourvèdre.  It is also grown in Languedoc
Roussillon where the heavy winds help the grape to grow.  It is the second most planted grape in
France and is only second to Merlot. The French have been planting not only Grenache, but other
mutations of the grape such as Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, Grenache Rose and Grenache
Gris. Grenache has been used to make roses in both France and Spain using Grenache Rose. 
France’s Provence, Tavel and Lirac regions are especially known for using Grenache in rose
wines.  The Roussillon region uses Grenache Gris and Grenache Noir in many fortified wines. 

Spain is where Grenache originated from, specifically, Aragon.  Below is a map of where
Grenache was planted in the 18th century. 
Where Grenache was grown in the 18th Century

Of course a lot has changed since then, but Grenache is still the most planted grape in Spain
which it is called Granacha.  Spain grows several clonal varieties; Garnacha Tinta, a thin-skiined
dark colored grape and Granacha Peluda which translates to “Hairy Grenache” because of the
texture of the leaves.  It is often blended with Tempranillo where Grenache brings fruity flavors
and adds body.  Rioja often uses it for rose wines while Navarra uses it for even lighter wines. 
All Grenache are meant for early consumption since the grape oxidizes so quickly.  The flavor
profile is usually very fruity as that is one of Grenache’s signature flavors.

Grenache brings together fruity and spicy along with tobacco, pepper, plums, raspberry and
blackberry.  It is almost always hot unless blended with other grape varietals.  Australia has been
doing a lot of experimenting with it as a fortified wine.  This of course is not a stretch at all since
Grenache typically produces copious amounts of sugar which could all be fermented if the
winemaker chooses to do so.  Unlike France, Australia does not have strict wine laws and can
dabble in whatever kind of experimentation that they desire.  Australia has been doing a blend
commonly referred to as GSM which is Grenache with Syrah and Mourvedre.  South Africa does
not have strict wine laws either and has the perfect climate for Grenache.  It has been experiemnting with Grenache rose as well. It will be interesting to see what becomes of South Africa in the wine world and if Grenache will put it on the map.
Rose from South Africa

While Grenache has been around for centuries, people are discovering that Grenache truly can be
grown around the world.  As this worldwide wine revolution is taking place, I will be very
interested to see what becomes of this varietal.  Will more Grenache varietal wines make an
appearance?  How about more fortified or rose Grenache wines?  One thing is for sure, Grenache
is starting to get some press.  September 24, 2010 was International Grenache Day!  How cool is
that?  

Recently I tried a bottle of Granacha from Aragon, Spain.  The sub-region of Aragon where it
was from is called Calatayud.  It was a 2011 vintage and I paid $9 for it at the Vintage Cellar in
Blacksburg, VA.  I had to ask for help in finding a Granache varietal since none were on display. 
After some searching we found a bottle that was drinkable and within a college students price
range. 
Map of Spain, Aragon is colored teal

After reading about this grape varietal I decided that chicken, broccoli and potatoes would go
well with it.  Grenache does not have the big tannins to stand up to a nice juicy steak, but it is not
light enough to be paired with seafood either.  Chicken was a good compromise on both ends. 
Since Grenache tends to have some left over sugar, I stayed away from anything sweet.  Broccoli
would bring out the earthy flavor that is usually in Grenache and possibly counter act the
sweetness.  Potatoes would help to round out the high alcohol content along with the chicken. 
From past experiences if a wine is too hot for me, then I try it with either cheese or a
carbohydrate.  Theses seem to almost absorb some of the alcohol while in my mouth.  I am really
not sure why this happens, but it tastes very good.  The texture would become less chewy with
this meal and it would help give this wine some structure.  The body would tone down and make
it more drinkable.
Chicken, broccoli and mashed potaoes

The initial aromas I got were spicy, pepper, blackberry and raspberry.  Tobacco, cherry,
blackberry and spicy with a hot mid-palate and a spicy after taste.  After decanting for an hour,
more earthy, celery, barnyard, hay and horses aromas came out and added to what I added
initially smelled.  More of the tobacco flavor came out and it decreased the hot aftertaste just
slightly.

The intensity was very mild when I first tried it.  I had to swirl the glass for a few minutes before
I could smell anything other than spicy.  After decanting, the intensity increased, but not as much
as I expected it to which was disappointing.  I have tried this with other young reds and it has
made a world of difference.  On the nose, after decanting, the intensity of the spicy smell did
increase as I could smell it without even swirling the glass this time.  It took some time and
concentration to get the other aromas however.  Fruit such as blackberry and cherry were the
next two in intensity.  This was very similar both on the nose and while tasting it.
Bottle of Grenache which I tasted.

Big fruits and alcohol in this bottle and decanting increased the complexity.  As said above, more
aromas and flavors came out after decanting.  There was a low level of astringency and tannins. 
There was not enough acid and a high amount of sugar.  The alcohol content was 14.5% and I
could definitely feel it as it had a very hot lingering aftertaste.  It wasn’t bitter, much more of a
spicy flavor.
Granache is Spain’s number one grape as it makes up 55% of all the grapes grown in the
country.  The other 45% is made of many other varieties.  Mazuelo, Tempranillo, Monastrell,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah are the other grapes used to make red wines grown in the
region.  Macabeo, Malvasia, Granacha Blanca and Chardonnay are the grapes used to make
white wine in the region.  These are just the other grape varieties located in Calatayud, Spain.  I
am sure there are other grapes grown in Spain.
Calatayud’s climate is continental which means cold winters and hot, dry summers.  The
temperatures don’t exceed 13°C.  There is the possibility of frost from January to June.  The
annual rainfall is between 300mm and 500mm.  The soils are loose, stony with a lime content. 
There is a very poor amount of nutrients, but permeability is good.  The permeability helps the
roots get water and nutrients that they require.  These are excellent conditions for Grenache as it
thrives in this kind of environment.
Grenache on the vine with loose soil.

I enjoyed tasting this wine very much.  I wish that it had a more acidic component, but for a $9
Grenache, I thought it was very good.  This was the first varietal Grenache I have taste, but from
my research, it seems to fall in line with what is usually expected.  I would like to try Grenache
blended with other fruits in the future and I look forward to doing just that.

Sources:




Friday, March 29, 2013

Dinner - Zeppolis (The House Wine Showdown)

Almost every Sunday Zeppolis pairs ten different wines with a buffet style dinner.  A few weeks ago I went to their dinner called "The House Wine Showdown" with a few friends.  There were five different categories with each category having two wines of the same varietal.  We had to guess not only the grape varietal, but which wine in each category was their house wine.  

The front entrance to the restaurant. 
Zeppolis is located in Blacksburg, VA at 810 University City Blvd.  It is tucked back behind some buildings and a gas station and it is in a plaza.  If you were not looking for it, then you would never know it was there.  I actually did not discover the restaurant until my third year here at Virginia Tech.  It always has great food and service, so I wish that I would have discovered it earlier.
The front counter at Zeppolis.
This is the counter my friends and I were first greeted at and we were promptly showed where to check in.  We had made reservations a few days in advance as these dinner tastings tend to fill up fairly quickly.  There was a special sign in sheet just for this tasting.  We were allowed to pick anywhere we wanted to sit in their tasting room. 
Zeppolis' tasting room which is to the right of the front counter.
This is where we had our dinner with many other students in the class.  Our menu was pretty extensive as it included a romaine salad with parmesan pepper dressing, three different cheeses and crackers, caprese salad which had fresh tomatoes slices with mozzarella cheese and balsamic vinaigrette  chicken parmesan, shrimp scampi, Italian bread and olive bread with dipping oil and cheese raviolis.  Below is a picture of one of our plates of food.
Dinner plate at Zeppolis
We tried two of each of the following varietals; Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, White Zinfandel, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  At the end of the tasting we were given the following sheet that includes pictures of all of the wine labels that were tasted.

 
Group A: Pinot Grigio, Group B: Chardonnay, Group C:White Zinfandel, Group D: Malbec, Group E: Cabernet Sauvignon
Picture of me at the end of the dinner.

I was very impressed that Zeppolis had these printed for us just because they knew most of us are in the Geography of Wine class.  I had a great time trying to guess the varietal of these wines as they were poured in brown paper to bags to conceal both the grape varietal and the labels.

My friends and I actually arrived late to the wine dinner so this picture of me was taken after it was all said and done.  We were packing up to leave when I remembered that I needed to take a picture for this blog!  We stopped putting on our winter gear to face the cold winter weather for just a moment so that I could have my picture.  I wish we would have been able to take more pictures, but we got to caught up in trying to guess the name of the wines.  Time sure does fly when you are having fun.

The first wine I tasted was Casra Pinot Grigio from 2010.  It is the house wine which is sold at $5 a glass and $14.99 for the bottle.  Floral and fruity on the nose.  It was very acidic and watery and subsequently one of my least favorite wines of the night.  I tried it with salad and bread which rounded it out a little, but it did not change my opinion of the wine.  Everyone in the group agreed that this was not their favorite.

Musarango Trattoria Busa alla Torre de Lele Lison was the second Pinot Grigio from 2010.  The alcohol is 11.5% and it is sold at $7.99 a bottle.  Hints of floral and peach on the nose.  Bold, strong and very acidic, but I really liked it.  I would pick this wine over the one above any day.  I also had this wine with the salad and it was fantastic.

The Original Darkhorse Chardonnay from 2010 is 13.5% alcohol.  Spice and smoky on the nose.  Spice, caramel, vanilla and very smooth going down.  It is sold at $9.99 per bottle and I believe it is worth every penny.  I tried the chicken parmesan with this wine which changed the flavor to creamy.  When I had it with cheddar cheese and Italian bread it brought out more of the caramel, oak and the spice.  I was astonished at how much this wine could change with different types food.

Wine display in Zeppolis
The Riven Rock Chardonnay from 2011 was the house wine which again is sold at $5 a glass and $9.99 a bottle.  Floral and pear on the nose. Very acidic with a strong taste of grapefruit   I was disappointed that this had no oak component at all because unlike Gary, I love the oak monster.  I tried this with shrimp scampi which did not seem to make much of a difference.

Front Porch's White Zinfandel from 2011 was the house wine with the same pricing scheme of $5 a glass and $9.99 a bottle.  The color is a very light pink and it is from California.  Blackberry jam and raspberries on the nose.  Sweet with a bold mid palate and an acidic after taste.  11% alcohol content and I could not detect any heat at all.  I really liked when I tried this wine with parmesan chicken, but the difference in taste was minimal.  It took away some of the acidic after taste.

Buehler Vineyards from 2011 is 100% White Zinfandel sold at $10.99 a bottle.  Overwhelming aromas of berries on the nose.  Berries and grapefruit with a satisfying after taste.  I tried this with shrimp scampi and it toned down some of the berry flavors so I could taste the subtle hint of melon flavor.  I really enjoyed this wine.

Santa Julia's Malbec from 2011 is produced in Argentina.  It is the house with the same pricing as the other house wines.  Jammy, oak and woody on the nose.  Hot and spicy with flavors of plum and black cherries along with big tannins.  When tasted with cheese and crackers the cherry flavor became much larger and more powerful.  I enjoyed this wine with food much more than without food.  

Wine rack at Zeppolis
Maipe Malbec from 2012 is also from Argentina.  Caramel and jams on the nose.  A nice deep, dark color. Very dry with the oak monster coming out once again.  Tried this with the olive bread dipped in olive oil and it really toned down the flavor for me.  I prefer to have this wine by itself.  It is sold at $12.99 a bottle.

Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon from 2010 is priced at $9.99 a bottle.  Oak, cherry and berries on the nose.  This was a large oak monster to me and I thought it was to powerful.  I tried this with the caprese salad which had no affect on the taste.  I would have to pass on this.

Riven Rock California Cabernet Sauvignon from 2010 is priced at $9.99 a bottle as it is their house wine.  Overwhelmingly spicy on the nose without much else going on there.  Bold tannins, very dry and a hot after taste.  This wine did not sit well with me even after trying it with the Italian bread.

I very much enjoyed my dinner with my friends.  We each had our own favorites, but mine was Musarango Trattoria Busa alla Torre de Lele Lison Pinot Grigio.  I really liked the set up of the dinner however it was much different than I expected.  I thought this was a five course meal with each course brought out separately, however I liked the buffet style with lots of interaction.  I can't wait to go back for another dinner.   









Tasting - Emeri de Bortoli Sparkling Shiraz


Name:  Emeri de Bortoli Sparkling Shiraz
Variety: Shiraz
Region: South Eastern Australia
Country: Australia
Year: 2011
Price: $9.95

Winery Review:  A relatively light, fresh style of sparkling Shiraz, with berries and hints of chocolate picking up just a touch of sweet vanilla on the finish.

My Review:  Spicy with hints of raspberries on the nose.  Dark chocolate, bubbly, spicy mid palate with a smooth finish and a lingering sweet after taste.  I did not have this wine with food.

Tasting - Sainte Victoire Cotes de Provence


Name: Sainte Victoire Cotes de Provence
Variety: 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Cinsault
Region: Provence
Country: France
Year: 2011
Price: $8.95

Winery Review: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault
Bright salmon pink; typical of the fresh but warm Provence style.  Refined and complex on the nose, with summer fruit and floral notes.  Dry and crisp, with a delicate flavor and full texture.

My Review: This was a very light colored rose with a 13% alcohol content.  Very strong smell of grapefruit on the nose.  Smooth, flowery and salty with a very nice finish.  I did not have this wine with food.  I think it would go well with anything sweet to offset the salty taste.

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Tasting - Tres Ojos Garnacha


Name: Tres Ojos Garnacha
Variety: Grenache
Region: Calatayud
Country: Spain
Year: 2011
Price: $6.95

Winery Review: This wine has a brick red color with a bouquet of red raspberries, spice and white pepper.  The palate is incredibly concentrated and rich.  The modern styles of Garnacha in Spain are continuously being perceived worldwide as wines of extraordinary good quality.  This wine is fruity, juicy and shows a great depth, ripe tannins, length but yet with wonderful elegance and lightness.  Enjoy with sausages, roasted meats, aged cheeses, etc.

My Review: Black cherry and ripe, dark skinned fruits on the nose.  !4.5% alcohol and a very deep red color.  Acidic, hot, jammy and a spicy after taste.  This was not well balanced without food and I think a meal would round it out.

Tasting - Montebuena


Name: Montebuena
Variety: Tempranillo
Region: Rioja
Country: Spain
Year: 2010
Price: $8.95

Winery Review: 100% Tempranillo
Ripe cherry and blackcurrant on the nose and in the mouth.  Pliant and seamless in texture, with good heft and back-end energy.  Finishes smooth and sweet, with fine-grained tannins providing shape and grip.  Still on the young side but this wine drinks very well with an hour or so of decanting; it's an excellent value for Rioja.

My Review:  14% alcohol with a nice red color.  Plum, bold and spicy on the nose.  Spicy, jammy, full body and big tannins with a dry after taste.  I did not have this wine with food.

Tasting - Canyon Road Chardonnay


Canyon Road Chardonnay's Bottle
 Name: Canyon Road Chardonnay
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: California
Country: USA
Year: 2011
Price: $6.95

Winery Review: Medium-bodied wine with notes of crisp apple and ripe citrus fruit with a hint of cinnamon spice.  Delicious complement to grilled chicken, lighter pasta dishes or mild cheeses.

My Review: Crisp, white chocolate on the nose.  Apple, cinnamon, milk chocolate and melon with a lingering sweet after taste.  I did not have this wine with food.  I would like to try it with an alfredo sauce.



Canyon Road Chardonnay's Label